Snowdonia Way Trek

Dean Russell • July 31, 2018

A long distance walk through the Snowdonia National Park

Snowdonia was one of the first areas to receive National Park status in 1951, with the tallest mountain in Wales and tremendous diverse landscapes created by volcanoes and glaciation it is easy to understand why. The area has impressive mountains, large expanses of woodland, beautiful gorges, miles of coastline, waterfalls and plentiful remnants from a slate industrial past. What better way to experience the area than to walk from Machynlleth in the South to Conwy in the North on a less well known long distance walking route that is the Snowdonia Way .


Day 1

The first day saw us walk 24.7km with 407m of height gain. The trek started crossing the River Dovey and followed the Corris railway along the valley floor that linked the old mining towns of Corris and Aberllefenni to Machynlleth. Slate mining has a long history in Wales and was dramatically visible as we passed a huge cavernous abandoned mine while walking through the spoil heaps en route. On a very hot summers day the air conditioning effect as air moved through air gaps in the spoils did not go unnoticed or unappreciated!

The walk ascended for a good 3km and we all suffered in the afternoon heat, everyone found their pace, stuck to it and came across the top of the col warmly welcomed by everyone else. The rest of the days walking had great views of Cadair Idris, both the east and north face.


Day 2

The start to the day certainly got the legs firing with a steep climb out of the village. Within no time we had crossed Afon Mawddach and started to rise higher and higher above the valley floor. It wasn’t until we left the woods that the efforts of climbing were rewarded with views of the river and Foel Cynwch.

After descending through beautiful deciduous National Trust owned woods we headed into the woodland of the King (Coed y Brenin). The woodland is better known as North Wales premier mountain biking centre and the number of bikes around certainly gave that impression too. Walking through woodland for any length of time can be a bit monotonous when there are no views and the 250 metres of ascent weren’t helping. When we finally came out the other side though the view across the moorland, onto Llyn Trawsfynydd and beyond, deserved a rest and a moment to savour. We descended from Craig-Y-Penmaen and continued on for the last 5km to Trawsfyndd through agricultural farm yards and fields.


Day 3

Starting the day walking along the Llyn Trawsfynydd’s (a man made reservoir’s) 200 metre bridge with low cloud and drizzle felt like an ominous start to what would be the longest day’s walking on the trek (29.5km, 930m). After passing the reservoir we followed the deep gorge of Llennyrch through fields of bog myrtle. The name would suggest wet feet but after the summer we have had so far our feet were anything but wet. After a short slippery stream crossing, the walk ascended out of a forest and onto open land.

The route took us onto Wales’ coast path and great views down to the sea. Walking up the valley away from the sea led to further forest paths before the views ahead opened up and a chance to get a good look of Snowdonia’s Matterhorn, Cnict. Its a perfectly shaped pyramidal mountain that is often overlooked due to some of the taller mountains in Snowdonia national park but should be on everyones list to visit.

The day had already been long and the pace understandingly slowed as we traversed along the uneven stones that make up the pass of Aberglasslyn. It’s certainly a spectacular way to enter the village of Beddgelert where a well earned rest for everyone waited after a long 11 hour da.


Day 4

The start of the day was a mellow 10km walk upstream passing two natural lakes with mountains on all sides. After lunch by the river the day was about to get a lot tougher with 300m height gain in under 2km. The higher we walked the better the views of Crib Goch and the tallest mountain in these lands, Snowden, which spurred the group on to the top.

Once over the Col we waved goodbye to the views over Snowden and started down towards Dolwyddelan. The cumulative effect of a number of long days definitely took its toll on the group and every undulation was felt including the last 50 m climb before Dolwyddelan castle.


Day 5

This was the day that many had been looking forward to, its a great low level walk through the Ogwen valley with views over the Carneddau and the Glyders.

We started walking steeply uphill out of Dolwyddelan on forest tracks that warmed our tired legs but kept us nice and cool as temperatures outside the forest started to rise. On leaving the forest we had great views of Moel Siabod which we contoured until dropping into Capel Curig. The next 6 km were simply spectacular, views of Snowden, Tryfan, Pen yr Ole Wen to name just a few of the 3,000ft peaks visible in the clear skies.

We crossed over to the other side of the valley and followed Llyn Ogwen around it’s North side, who’s path was more akin to the uneven, rock hopping paths you see on the way up to many of the peaks in the Snowden national park. Thankfully the RAF had got my text and right on cue one of their fighter jets screamed past us banking from one side to the other like a scene out of Top Gun - “I feel the need for speed!” (for all the top gun fans out there!).

In the afternoon the route continued down the valley towards Bethesda. We pasted swathes of slate spoil due to only 10% of slate mined being useable for milling and past an insanely long zip wire across the mine. Another day finished and one that I hope will stay with the team for a very long time as it certainly didn’t disappoint.


Day 6

Another hill start this morning and no-one even broke a sweat as they steamed up the 200m ascent to just below Moel Faban. Contouring around the northern slopes of the Carnedau gave views of Anglesey, puffin island, numerous wild ponies and the sea. The terrain under foot as we contoured was perfect for walking and within no time at all a corner was turned and our first glimpse of Aber Falls, a 35m waterfall were seen. When we arrived there was a great spot to sit on the grass, admire the view and eat our lunch.

As the clouds from the west thickened we started the 350m ascent that would take us out of the valley and bring us close to the finish for the day, Llanfairfechen. With only a couple of kilometres to go it rained which was the first time since we started the trek 6 days ago, it wasn’t heavy but it rained enough that the smell of Petrichor was in the air… that refreshing smell after rainfall that I personally love.


Day 7

As was the usual patten we started the day up a good hill and onto stunning moorland with ancient stone circles, fantastic views over the sea and the contrasting colours of gorse, heather and bracken.

After dropping down to Sychnant Pass our last last ascent of our trip was ahead and the descent to Conwy with views of the castle and walls that surround the town. Sometimes trails can feel like an anticlimax at the end but this one doesn’t. Having travelled nearly 100 miles north through the Snowdonia National Park, finishing by the sea with no where further to go and a spectacular looking castle was no anti climax.

6 people started the 97 miles as strangers but through the shared effort, a common interest and plenty of time to exchange stories they no doubt have left as friends.


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Many of us found ourselves with more time on our hands as lockdown and travel restrictions took grip and the country battled to contain the Coronavirus pandemic that spread across the world. Much of the National Park in Snowdonia closed to ensure there were no undue pressures on local emergency and rescue services and the beloved mountains were off limits for the time being. Running through lockdown was a good opportunity to gain an intimate knowledge of all the footpaths in the local area, often running through thickets of brambles and gorse on paths that had been long since forgotten. Living on the edge of Snowdonia National Park at the outlet of the glacially formed Llyn Padarn, many of my lockdown routes passed a brass plinth that speaks of the evolution of the scenery in front of your eyes. Many of my hours passed enjoying the mountains, reflecting so perfectly on the lake when the air was still, watching how the light morphed high up as the sun started setting on another day of lockdown. It was on one of these many nights that I started to trace the line of the skyline and imagined running a route from the end of the lake across all the mountain tops around Llyn Padarn. As many people delved into cookbooks, looking for the next bake, or updating general knowledge preparing for the next zoom quiz, I hunched over my kitchen table with the map of Snowdonia laid out tracing the same line I had envisioned earlier. What I had been tracing was the hydrological water catchment for Llyn Padarn, twelve peaks where rain drops run from its summits onto their rocky slopes, down steep runnels into streams and rivers feeding the lake, flowing right to the outlet where I had been admiring one of the best views in the National Park. With the levels of Coronavirus infections reducing, on another unusually fine Friday afternoon the news from the Welsh Government I had been waiting for was delivered in their regular briefing. The mountains were going to open in their entirety and it felt fitting to commemorate the opening by running the skyline that I had so often admired. To follow the water catchment the route first ascends gently on roads through the villages of Fachwen and Dinorwic and into the local quarries. Described by some as a blight on the landscape, the sometimes otherworldly looking vistas are a reminder of the industrial era when North Wales was home to one of the most important slate producing areas. Ascending through endless slate piles, up inclines, past buildings and metal work that once would of been integral to the workings you get a great sense of how hard and dangerous the work for the miners must have been. After leaving the quarries behind, already high in mountain terrain, the summit of Elidir Fach was soon under my feet. A further short pull brought the rocky summit of Elidir Fawr, with its jagged grey gritstone that is in contrast to the red sedimentary siltstone on the flanks leading to the summit. The hard work initially getting up high was rewarded heading along the spectacular ridge to Mynydd Perfedd and sublime views to Marchlyn Mawr reservoir, Ogwen valley and one of North Wales most iconic mountains, Tryfan. The position of the Glyderau with mountain ranges on either side gave a big mountain feel to the summits of Foel-goch and Y Garn before descending towards Twll Ddu, more commonly known as Devils Kitchen named due to the sinister plume of smoke rising from a huge crack in its cliffs. Instead of descending into the depths of the cauldron a steep ascent up scree slopes of Glyder Fawr was necessary which felt like traveling without moving as my feet slid from underneath me. Descent from the summit was via the red route that winds its way south through complex terrain passing boulders with a faint spray painted red dot leading the way. The views across the valley to the classically shaped Crib Goch were spectacular and left me in no doubt that the next section contains some of the best scrambling terrain in North Wales. Pen Y Pass was a welcome respite and a chance to grab a snack and recharge my batteries before the crux of the run. The going got tough as I made my way up from Pen y Pass with the technical, engaging scramble up the initially broad East ridge that converges to an airy ridge walk up to Crib Goch’s summit. The fun didn’t stop there though continuing along the summit ridge which has some spectacular positions where it is not uncommon to see people traversing it “Au Cheval” (like a horse) before yet more first class scrambling to reach the grassy summit of Crib y Ddysgl. The way forward was made up of skirting impressive Cwms that are the product of scouring in the late Ice Age that ended some 10,000 years ago. The geology of the Cwms are synonymous with glacial activity in Snowdonia with the mountains having two distinct faces, grassy slopes facing South-West and steep craggy ones facing North-East. After completing the technical section where my thoughts were solely on the next foothold and handhold as you traverse a couple of Snowdon’s giants its a welcome respite, even with tired legs, to run up and down the grassy summits of Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron and Moel Eilio. Appreciating the great views of the Nantlle valley and the Menai Straits, I found myself in a state with no thoughts running through my mind, no stresses, no to do lists, nothing. Running has long been associated with controlling stress and boosting the bodies ability to deal with mental tension. Combining that with the benefits of being in the mountains has long been vital to my own mental wellbeing and as I continued my run I could feel the mountains cleansing my mind with every step, oh how I had missed the mountains. Running down from Moel Eilio skirting another set of slate quarries the final summit of Cefn Du was soon arrived at with the sudden realisation that there are no well worn paths from its summit and so a degree of heather bashing was required. Following a faint path by a dry stone wall led to a better trodden path that drops down eventually to the main road and a short run back to the plinth where the journey had started. An opportunity to admire the views, a chance to reflect, taking in all the mountains that have been traversed and ponder there long evolution just as the words by Gillian Clarke describes: But for how long? Cherish these mountains, born in fire and ash out of the sea to make this wilderness, Asleep for aeons beneath ice and snow, carved by the shifting glaciers long ago, Till ten millennia back, the last ice age made right for fern and purple saxifrage, This place, whose evolutions given birth to the rare Snowdon lilly’s home on earth, But all could go with the melting snow. The Llyn Padarn Skyline is a 36 km run with 3,108m of height gain that was completed on the 6th July 2020 in 6 hrs 31mins and 25 secs. If you would like to have a go at the Skyline there are more details on how you can get your time recorded here . Dean Russell is an active trail runner, climber, mountaineer and trekker with over 16 years experience in the mountains. Usually found running and climbing in his local mountains in North Wales he offers private and group guiding highlighting the best routes in Snowdonia’s national park. If you would like further details then you can contact Dean here .
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