How to start rock climbing outdoors

Dean Russell • March 2, 2018

Top tips to get you started rock climbing outdoors


Making the step from a local climbing wall with its colour coded set routes that is a controlled environment to climbing outdoors on rock can be a daunting prospect. From finding the rock face (crag) to knowing which route you are about to commit to and retrieving your shiny rack theres a lot more to consider and learn. Here are some top tips to help you on your way.

The logical progression from an indoor wall is to start sport climbing which relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock for protection. It shares a lot of similarities to indoor walls but don’t be fooled into thinking its the same. Its not!


  1. Climb with an experienced climber. Oscar Wilde once said that “Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes”. 15 years after my first experiences of rock climbing in the Avon Gorge with little to no experience, I sometimes wonder how I didn’t seriously injury myself. Getting out with friends that are experienced climbers is a great way to get introduced to climbing outdoors and will be a lot of fun. If this isn’t an option for you, then there are a wealth of climbing clubs that can be found on the BMC website or you could use the experience of a qualified instructor and book on a learn to lead sport climbing course so you can learn from someone else’s mistakes!
  2. Buy a guide book for the area. Rockfax has a database of nearly all the routes all over the country and is a great resource. However the number of times I have been at the base of a rock face watching someone with their phone, trying to work out which route they are about to set off on…. 5c? no 7a! Guidebooks are written by climbers for climbers and contain every bit of information you need from driving to the crag, how to get to the routes, route descriptions, access, bird restrictions, local history of climbing and a lot more.
  3. Lower your grade. Just because you climb 6a indoors don’t expect to climb the same grade outdoors. Reading indoor climbing wall routes are a lot easier, due to the coloured holds. When you climb outside you will need to read the rock which only comes with time and experience on the rock.
  4. Trust your feet. Having coached climbing both indoors and outdoors I’ve found there is a heavy reliance on upper body strength in climbers that have only climbed indoors. Being able to use the powerful muscles of your legs to move up the rock face and to trust your feet on small holds is vital to progress your climbing on rock.
  5. Wear a helmet. Ask any (and I do mean any) climber who has climbed outdoors, if they have ever had any near misses? If anyone says no then they have done very little climbing outdoors or are lying. I've had stones whizzing by me at such speeds they whistle as they fly by, small rocks dislodged by other parties or wildlife and a block falling near me that was big enough that the consequences of a direct hit would of been fatal. I don’t want to put the fear in you but climbing has its dangers, do you, your friends and your family a favour and wear a helmet!
  6. Take a headtorch with you. It gets dark in the evenings pretty quickly and its all too easy when you are climbing to loose track of time. Its also one of those unwritten rules that if anything is likely to go wrong (ropes getting stuck or struggling to finish a route) it will happen in the failing light. For its weight, a head torch in your bag pocket is a vital bit of kit you will always be glad you took!


Dean Russell is a climber, mountaineer and trail runner who coaches climbing indoors and outdoors and runs climbing courses in theBristol area you can find out more by visiting http://www.adventure-awaits.co.uk/about


Running up a hill
By Dean Russell January 8, 2025
Fuelling before and during the race to help you perform at your best.
By Dean Russell May 14, 2024
Hints and tips to enhance your technical running
By Dean Russell January 1, 2024
Embrace the chill and discover a whole new satisfaction in your runs
By Dean Russell October 5, 2023
How to ensure you have the best chance to complete this demanding and exhilarating hike.
By Dean Russell January 13, 2023
“There is no reward without risk, I can’t imagine living without it” - Blaine Smith
Top runs in north wales; top runs in Snowdonia; running guiding; running snowdonia, sn
By Dean Russell November 7, 2020
Second in a new series highlighting the finest running routes around Snowdonia's national park. In the second blog post the author, Dean Russell, showcases a short remote feeling run that packs a punch with a horseshoe run around the Northen mountains of the Carneddau.
By Dean Russell July 27, 2020
Many of us found ourselves with more time on our hands as lockdown and travel restrictions took grip and the country battled to contain the Coronavirus pandemic that spread across the world. Much of the National Park in Snowdonia closed to ensure there were no undue pressures on local emergency and rescue services and the beloved mountains were off limits for the time being. Running through lockdown was a good opportunity to gain an intimate knowledge of all the footpaths in the local area, often running through thickets of brambles and gorse on paths that had been long since forgotten. Living on the edge of Snowdonia National Park at the outlet of the glacially formed Llyn Padarn, many of my lockdown routes passed a brass plinth that speaks of the evolution of the scenery in front of your eyes. Many of my hours passed enjoying the mountains, reflecting so perfectly on the lake when the air was still, watching how the light morphed high up as the sun started setting on another day of lockdown. It was on one of these many nights that I started to trace the line of the skyline and imagined running a route from the end of the lake across all the mountain tops around Llyn Padarn. As many people delved into cookbooks, looking for the next bake, or updating general knowledge preparing for the next zoom quiz, I hunched over my kitchen table with the map of Snowdonia laid out tracing the same line I had envisioned earlier. What I had been tracing was the hydrological water catchment for Llyn Padarn, twelve peaks where rain drops run from its summits onto their rocky slopes, down steep runnels into streams and rivers feeding the lake, flowing right to the outlet where I had been admiring one of the best views in the National Park. With the levels of Coronavirus infections reducing, on another unusually fine Friday afternoon the news from the Welsh Government I had been waiting for was delivered in their regular briefing. The mountains were going to open in their entirety and it felt fitting to commemorate the opening by running the skyline that I had so often admired. To follow the water catchment the route first ascends gently on roads through the villages of Fachwen and Dinorwic and into the local quarries. Described by some as a blight on the landscape, the sometimes otherworldly looking vistas are a reminder of the industrial era when North Wales was home to one of the most important slate producing areas. Ascending through endless slate piles, up inclines, past buildings and metal work that once would of been integral to the workings you get a great sense of how hard and dangerous the work for the miners must have been. After leaving the quarries behind, already high in mountain terrain, the summit of Elidir Fach was soon under my feet. A further short pull brought the rocky summit of Elidir Fawr, with its jagged grey gritstone that is in contrast to the red sedimentary siltstone on the flanks leading to the summit. The hard work initially getting up high was rewarded heading along the spectacular ridge to Mynydd Perfedd and sublime views to Marchlyn Mawr reservoir, Ogwen valley and one of North Wales most iconic mountains, Tryfan. The position of the Glyderau with mountain ranges on either side gave a big mountain feel to the summits of Foel-goch and Y Garn before descending towards Twll Ddu, more commonly known as Devils Kitchen named due to the sinister plume of smoke rising from a huge crack in its cliffs. Instead of descending into the depths of the cauldron a steep ascent up scree slopes of Glyder Fawr was necessary which felt like traveling without moving as my feet slid from underneath me. Descent from the summit was via the red route that winds its way south through complex terrain passing boulders with a faint spray painted red dot leading the way. The views across the valley to the classically shaped Crib Goch were spectacular and left me in no doubt that the next section contains some of the best scrambling terrain in North Wales. Pen Y Pass was a welcome respite and a chance to grab a snack and recharge my batteries before the crux of the run. The going got tough as I made my way up from Pen y Pass with the technical, engaging scramble up the initially broad East ridge that converges to an airy ridge walk up to Crib Goch’s summit. The fun didn’t stop there though continuing along the summit ridge which has some spectacular positions where it is not uncommon to see people traversing it “Au Cheval” (like a horse) before yet more first class scrambling to reach the grassy summit of Crib y Ddysgl. The way forward was made up of skirting impressive Cwms that are the product of scouring in the late Ice Age that ended some 10,000 years ago. The geology of the Cwms are synonymous with glacial activity in Snowdonia with the mountains having two distinct faces, grassy slopes facing South-West and steep craggy ones facing North-East. After completing the technical section where my thoughts were solely on the next foothold and handhold as you traverse a couple of Snowdon’s giants its a welcome respite, even with tired legs, to run up and down the grassy summits of Moel Cynghorion, Foel Goch, Foel Gron and Moel Eilio. Appreciating the great views of the Nantlle valley and the Menai Straits, I found myself in a state with no thoughts running through my mind, no stresses, no to do lists, nothing. Running has long been associated with controlling stress and boosting the bodies ability to deal with mental tension. Combining that with the benefits of being in the mountains has long been vital to my own mental wellbeing and as I continued my run I could feel the mountains cleansing my mind with every step, oh how I had missed the mountains. Running down from Moel Eilio skirting another set of slate quarries the final summit of Cefn Du was soon arrived at with the sudden realisation that there are no well worn paths from its summit and so a degree of heather bashing was required. Following a faint path by a dry stone wall led to a better trodden path that drops down eventually to the main road and a short run back to the plinth where the journey had started. An opportunity to admire the views, a chance to reflect, taking in all the mountains that have been traversed and ponder there long evolution just as the words by Gillian Clarke describes: But for how long? Cherish these mountains, born in fire and ash out of the sea to make this wilderness, Asleep for aeons beneath ice and snow, carved by the shifting glaciers long ago, Till ten millennia back, the last ice age made right for fern and purple saxifrage, This place, whose evolutions given birth to the rare Snowdon lilly’s home on earth, But all could go with the melting snow. The Llyn Padarn Skyline is a 36 km run with 3,108m of height gain that was completed on the 6th July 2020 in 6 hrs 31mins and 25 secs. If you would like to have a go at the Skyline there are more details on how you can get your time recorded here . Dean Russell is an active trail runner, climber, mountaineer and trekker with over 16 years experience in the mountains. Usually found running and climbing in his local mountains in North Wales he offers private and group guiding highlighting the best routes in Snowdonia’s national park. If you would like further details then you can contact Dean here .
Top runs in north wales; top runs in Snowdonia; running guiding; running snowdonia, snowdon runs
By Dean Russell June 19, 2020
First in a new series highlighting the finest running routes around Snowdonia's national park. In the first blog post the author, Dean Russell, showcases a run with some of the best views in the local area with a horseshoe run around Moel Eilio.
Running shoes, running adventures, running in north wales
By Dean Russell March 31, 2020
Blog for those addicted to running with tips and ideas to help get them through the Coronavirus lockdown
Multi Day Running Trail Running Multi day events
By Dean Russell January 14, 2020
Run some of the UK's long distance trails or traverse a mountain range in the Alps over multiple days for a new adventure in 2020 - here's some top tips on how.
More Posts